Posts Tagged ‘voip’

A Tidy Little OpenRC (Gentoo) init Script for TeamSpeak3

I recently set up a TeamSpeak3 server for the YI Minecraft users. Due to a crazy high-load-but-low-CPU-utlization problem I have decided to ditch ts3 and try Mumble.

Before I remove it, here’s the qick and clean init script I made (assumes ts3 was installed to /opt/ts3/ and a non-privileged user called ts3 has been made):

#!/sbin/runscript
# Copyright (c) 2013 http://foxpa.ws
# All rights released

description="Runs TeamSpeak3 on Gentoo"

depend()
{
        need net
}

start()
{
        ebegin "Starting TeamSpeak3"
        start-stop-daemon --start --quiet --user=ts3 --background --chdir=/opt/ts3/ --exec "/opt/ts3/ts3server_startscript.sh" -- start
        eend ${?}
}

stop()
{
        ebegin "Stopping TeamSpeak3"
        cd /opt/ts3/
        start-stop-daemon --stop --quiet --exec "/opt/ts3/ts3server_startscript.sh" -- stop
        /opt/ts3/ts3server_startscript.sh stop &> /dev/null
        eend ${?}
}

ip_ct_ras: decoding error: out of bound

I recently started getting complaints from a client running VoIP services about lag and jitter. I wasn’t able to correlate the issue with any regular indicators and I have a number of people using VoIP services as a client on the same network who haven’t reported any issues. Looking closer at the router I noticed certain daemons lagging despite a low load average and I could see dmesg was flooded with this message:

ip_ct_ras: decoding error: out of bound

There isn’t exactly a heap of documentation on this situation online but I was able to infer it had something to do with H.323. Doing an lsmod I found:

ip_nat_h323
ip_conntrack_h323

I know some VoIP setups have to do a little magic to get around conventional NAT but since this network is completely public I assumed it was safe to rmmod these two modules and things seemed to clear up instantly. I’m still not sure how H.323 connection tracking got involved with good-ol-fashioned DMZ public IP routing and would appreciate any insights you VoIP geniuses could provide – especially since the client who complained is using SIP and not H.323.

Installing Cat5e 8P8C Wall Plate and RJ-11 Telephone Jack

This is more of an anecdote than a tutorial since I threw it together with what was handy and wouldn’t endorse this kind of work on-site.

I love moving. Broken back, head-to-toe agony and thousands of dollars vaporized aside – it gives me an opportunity to put new holes in walls and try to make it look as though the rent is a little higher than it actually is.

So, when I saw this ugliness it had to go immediately.

Call me Mr. Vain.

I opened it up and was a little surprised to see….

Nothing...

I removed the box and found the wire connected to…

Nothing... .... ...

Am I balls-trippin’  or did I discover the first decorative phone jack ever? I could understand if it was used to store drugs, but being painted over this is unlikely.

I don’t even need cat5 and a phone line in that room but this whole thing started consuming all the idle cycles of my brain. What the hell was that phone jack doing there? Who put it there? Why? Just what were these savages trying to prove?!

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

Forunately (?) there was also an inexplicable empty hole in the wall near where the jack had been.

Note that a lot of these 8P8C wall-plate/surface box modules do not follow the colour code as though you were crimping a connector. Follow the guide provided on the module for the way the other end is wired.

Apparently it is politically correct to use T-568A these days but the industry (including manufacturers of prefab cables) still seems to prefer B. Personally, I have always wired for B on straight-throughs.

Cut the drywall such that the module will pass into it. I should note here that if you want to save on wire the phone line can be spliced into the blue or brown pairs, but it’s always nicer to run both cables if you can.

Ideally we would be using a dual-port faceplate instead but I had a surface-mount RJ11 jack handy and went for it. I used a filing bit on my drill to make a little gap for the phone wire to come out, otherwise the faceplate won’t rest flat against the wall and one risks blowing out the threads in the drywall (easily fixed and better done by tapping in anchors and re-screwing, mind you). It would also be a good idea to put a knot in the line inside the box; however with the faceplate and a dozen staples holding it snug I don’t see it being much of an issue.

Ta-da! All better. :)

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