pitter patter on the keyboard

The PS561 Voice Dialer Security Console integrates up to 16 security sensors with your X10 home automation system. When the alarm is tripped the console will dial up to four preprogrammed numbers and allow the party on the other end to listen in. This suffers, of course, from the fact that the mic is in the same package as two peizo sirens.

This model is the predecessor to the SC9000 which is much prettier and includes a touch tone security and X10 module control dial-in menu. Modules advertised for either system are compatible with any X10 console, even the new versions of the door/window sensors:

As you can see, the DS12A is much smaller (and therefore sexier) however the integrated magnetic sensor makes placement less versatile. The new sensors take an additional magnetic sensor through the terminals at the bottom so up to two doors or windows can be monitored with one device. This does not, however, provide exactly the same functionality as the DS10A’s external sensor as the internal sensor must be bypassed if only the external one is to be used.

You may find yourself forced to install these switches upside down on left-to-right opening vectors such as patio doors. This would be fine if the X10 logo wasn’t printed on the front.

The glass break sensors (GB10A) use an adhesive backing to stick right on your window panes. Though they can apparently detect a window breaking within 20 feet to reduce the potential for false alarms I have installed them on every pane of glass (two per window) and put them on their lowest sensitivity.
All of these modules are installed by sliding the console’s switch from the RUN1 or RUN2 positions to the INSTALL position then pressing the TEST button and, when finished installing all devices, returning the console’s switch to RUN1 or RUN2.

When the alarm is tripped the console sends alternating ON/OFF commands to the house and device code you have configured. The original purpose of this was to flash the outside lights to make your house easier for law enforcement/security to identify but some clever duck realized this signal could also be used to set off remote alarms. The PowerHorn (SH10A) is a module that screws into an outlet anywhere in your home and blasts its four peizo sirens much louder than the security console on its own. If you have a large dwelling space multiple units liberally to ensure a traumatic experience for intruders. The only drawback to these sirens is they are prone to false positives; if you remotely turn on and off the lights associated with their house and device code four times quickly they will go off momentarily which can be quite undesirable at some hours.

Last but not least, of course, the KR10A security keyfob. The lights on/off buttons control the lights on the address the console has been configured for so you can, for example, turn on the outside lights when you exit your vehicle. I haven’t had any false positives with the panic feature yet but it should be noted that the cover over the buttons dimples and wears out quickly.

One of the bathroom fans in my new pad was installed by the same Joe Handyman that brought you electrical tape on a wall switch and the decorative phone jack.

Not only is the fan wired in series with the light switch, the switch is screwed into the drywall and the neutral is running up the outside of the wall!

Through a giant, ugly, silicone-plugged hole and into the bathroom:

Connected to the fan with a thin twist of electrical tape!

I cut a hole in the drywall above the switches to help me run the cable around the stud to the right of the door:

When cutting a hole you intend to patch over later make an angled incision in the same fashion one would the top of a jack-o-lantern, such that the wedge can be re-seated with spackling paste without falling through.

North American electrical codes call for at least 14-gague non-metallic sheathed wire for 15A circuits, commonly referred to by the trademark Romex.

The sides of most single-gang electrical boxes can be unscrewed and removed so that two or more boxes can be joined together.

Make sure all of your grounds are securely connected to the electrical box and the neutrals have been connected and capped. I’ve connected a WS12A X10 remote control dimmer and a regular decorator-style toggle switch for the fan.

If you are installing remodelling or “old-work” boxes such as these (you can tell the difference by the tabs on the top and bottom for mounting on the surface of drywall) cut the drywall neatly around it so that it fits snugly in the wall. You can see from the first image that this hole was already made too high to accommodate the original old-work box which was recessed (without removing the tabs) and screwed into the door frame stud like a new-work box; while undesirable this shouldn’t be too much of a problem since the faceplate will cover the gap and the electrical box can be sufficiently secured with the bottom tabs alone.

I don’t recommend mounting new-work boxes until you have a faceplate handy since drywall will not tolerate minor adjustments in screw positions.

Now spackle and re-seat any plugs you’ve removed from the wall. I used Poly Filla Big, a 2 inch putty knife and a damp J-cloth to patch this hole. Simply sand, level and paint once the spackling has set to make it disappear. The hard part will be hiding all that silicone numbnuts left me…

Ok so I lied in my first article on X10: I’m sticking with it. Insteon is unfortunately still out of my price range for a house I don’t own (I don’t want to have to rip everything out of the walls when I leave). X10, for that matter, is out of my price range – it seems in the year since I’ve ordered some sort of price fixing has gone on with at least switch modules. What used to be a $9 dimmer now costs $20 shipped, and the WS13A 20A wall switches now cost upward of $30.

Patent fscking thievery if you ask me.

So I bend over and take it like a good consumer.

The rest of my switches and security system are on their way so those will have to wait for another time. Interesting to note that alibaba has all sorts of neat Chinese x10 shit that should be available on 60Hz but isn’t.

Few things piss me off more than a painted faceplate.

First switch to go is bedroom lighting. This is the obvious first choice, since dimmers:

• Set the mood for sexytime
• Protect your eyes from your hangover
• Gently turn the lights on from bed so you can take a leak without stepping on the cat

If you have no confidence in your work, DON'T.

Electrical tape around the switch. I can see this was installed by the same person who did my decorative phone jack.

Rudy the red-nosed Marette

As you can see there’s not a hell of a lot of space in there to work with, made worse by the use of a four-wire nut for a two-wire connection.

You can either cut the excess wire or if you’re a masochist like me you can un-bend it and try shoving it back up out of the electrical box. I try to take the least destructive route whenever possible but depending on how well the Romex is secured outside of the electrical box this may not be an option.

Now that we’re all nice and tidy connect the blue wire of the switch to the “live” wire, which is the hot that comes from the breaker. Connect the black wire to the hot that goes to the fixture.

The red wire would be connected to a companion switch if we wanted to take advantage of three-way switching but unless the third wire has already been run between the two electrical boxes it is probably easier and more economical to simply use a wireless switch at the other location to achieve the same effect. Cap the red wire with a wire nut so it doesn’t come into contact with ground.

Better. Now I just have to do something about the wall around it.

Don’t forget to set your house and device code under the paddle switch. I really hate these one-pole switches, particularly the fact that at first glance the toggles look like they provide two-way dimming functionality. Sadly, their Insteon equivalents start at $50 per unit.

*sigh*